Valle de la Luna, San Pedro de Atacama
This is the Chilean Valle de la Luna, in the Cordillera de la Sal west of San Pedro de Atacama — not the one outside La Paz in Bolivia, and not the one in San Juan province in Argentina. All three are called the same thing and the other two often outrank this one. It was declared a nature sanctuary in 1982 and forms part of Los Flamencos National Reserve, co-administered by CONAF and the Atacameño communities, and that administration is the part that catches visitors out.
The rules that have changed
You cannot enter on foot. Tickets must be bought at least a day in advance, online, and are not sold at the gate. Cyclists have their own entry window in the morning, not the afternoon. A great deal of travel writing still describes cycling out from town for the sunset, and under the current rules that is not possible. If you are booking late, take a tour whose price includes the admission.
What it costs
CONAF publishes CLP 10,800 general admission and CLP 5,400 reduced, the latter covering over-60s and visitors aged 11 to 17. Members of the Atacameño community enter free on presentation of their certificate.
What there is to see
Las Tres Marías, the salt caves, the Gran Duna and a series of viewpoints along the ridge. The rock is salt, clay and gypsum, folded and then eroded, and on a still afternoon the crust cracks audibly as the temperature drops.
The sunset, and the crowd
Everyone comes for the same forty minutes, when the salt range runs through pink and orange into violet. The viewpoints are busy and the tour vans arrive together. It is still the best light in the desert; just do not picture yourself alone on a ridge.
Valle de la Muerte next door
The neighbouring valley is where the sandboarding happens, and the two are often sold as one afternoon. Its name is disputed — widely said to be a mishearing of Valle de Marte, Mars Valley — and both versions are still in local use.
Frequently asked questions
Can I walk into Valle de la Luna?
No. Pedestrian entry is not permitted. Cyclists have a separate morning window, and tickets must be bought at least a day ahead online.
How much is the entrance fee?
CONAF publishes CLP 10,800 general and CLP 5,400 reduced for over-60s and 11-to-17-year-olds.
Which Valle de la Luna is this?
The Chilean one, 13 km from San Pedro de Atacama. Bolivia and Argentina each have a valley of the same name.
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